Keel or no keel

It’s hard to believe that the month of October is coming to a close. After that, I’ll only have one week left working at the Bighorn National Forest and I’ll have to say goodbye to the place where I’ve spent 5 months learning the forests and meadows that make up the mountain range, 5 months scouting, collecting, and shipping seed off to be used for restoration efforts.

Just imagine that this is a picture of the other side of the sign that announces that you’re leaving the Bighorns – that would be much more poignant

Uncharacteristically hot and dry fall weather (we were breaking high temperature records almost every day out here throughout September), resulted in perfect conditions for a fire, and a lightning strike in the deep woods meant just that. The Elk Fire, which started September 27, grew to about 97,000 acres (both on and off the forest) in the approximate month it was actively burning. As of writing this in late October it’s not 100% contained, but some much-needed precipitation and cooler weather have bolstered the tireless efforts of firefighters and other Forest Service employees, meaning that the threat of the fire spreading is down to almost zero.

It’s one thing to hear about fires across the country, and another to directly see the impact: a bustling office, evacuation orders in nearby towns, and heavy smoke throughout the area. We spent the entire summer getting to know that mountain, and now a good portion of it was burning. In fact, some of the areas impacted by the fire were places we collected seed – I didn’t imagine that I’d get to see an event that would require hands on restoration work the same summer I was collecting seed for said restoration!

Because my co-intern, Nick, and I are not actually Forest Service Employees, we were not allowed to do anything fire related (including driving people and supplies around), and vehicles were in high demand. So, October was mostly a month of days spent in the office.

Since late August and all of September were peak seed collection times, we were left with a backlog of plants to both identify and mount. This involved many hours making our way through dichotomous keys, either quickly coming to a conclusion about the species in front of us or lamenting about how difficult an ID ended up being, finding ourselves asking questions like: why are all the wheatgrasses so similar, and why do they span multiple genera? How do you actually tell if something is rhizomatous or not? What does the author even mean by this – you can’t convince me that there isn’t a more objective way to describe something than “relatively long”? And what even is a keel, really? (shoutout to the “Plant Identification Terminology” book, the real MVP of the month). At some point the hyper-specific language of dichotomous keys really starts to get to you. For example, after a couple hours of keying out some grasses, Nick described a plant pointing upwards (as opposed to creeping along a surface) as: “pointing in the direction opposite to the ground,” and I don’t think there’s a way to sound more like Dorn (the author of the Wyoming flora).

Nick keying out a grass – potentially looking for a keel

In particular, the genus Erigeron, which we (unfortunately) collected lots of in an effort to find one of our target species Erigeron speciosus, gave us lots of trouble; our specimen vs. the images of the species we ended on at the end of the key never quite seemed to match (I don’t know if I can call an image search another MVP because too often they just contradicted our key based identifications, but know that it was utilized often), so our IDs were questionable at best. You know you’ve spent too much time with one genus when you have the beginning couplets memorized.

A purple aster we thought could be an Erigeron 4 months ago but is actually Townsendia parryi

After ID came easily one of my favorite parts of the month: getting to mount all of the plants we collected onto herbarium sheets (which with the two vouchers for each population we collected seed from and all the other plants we grabbed, ended up being about 200). It was basically a big arts and crafts project, which, as a crafting girlie at heart, was right up my alley. I honestly would have been satisfied if all we had done this month was mount specimen.

Our office set up for mounting our herbarium specimens; at one point our entire room was covered with drying specimen sheets

Don’t let all of the office time fool you, though; we still had the opportunity to get out on the mountain and collect some seed this month. A big thank you to Artemisia tridentata (sagebrush) for having mature seed so late in the season. It was a great collection to finish the season on – there are some pretty large populations of it on the forest so we got to collect a lot of seed from just the two collections we did, and it’s a crucial part of our forest’s ecosystem stability.

After our final collections, it was time to pack and ship our seed. It was definitely surreal to see a representation of five months of work packed into a stack of boxes. Those boxes don’t even begin to fully represent everything that went into getting that seed. From the long hours spent getting familiar with the plants and the mountain, to the time it took to find suitable populations, to the many miles spent driving and walking, to hours spent sitting at a desk (including the countless interesting conversations and observations that happened along the way), and to the personal growth that’s bound to happen when you spend a summer on the Bighorn mountains.

Now our hard work and growth (both the interns’ and the plants’) is entrusted into the hands of a seed nursery, where the seed will be grown out to produce even more seed so we can have a fall back when the ever-weirding climate continues to threaten our forests and grasslands – a threat I got to see up close and personal this season. The path forward looks to, hopefully, more new friends found in plants and a greater understanding of the world around us. At the end of the day, what more could I ask for?

Dakota Prairie Grasslands: The End of an Era

Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, got its cube shape from being dried while packed into a cardboard box
Echinacea angustifolia seeds <3

I came into this internship with not a lot of expectations. I thought I’d learn more about plants and get to experience what botanic fieldwork was like, which sure I did, but I never would have thought I’d also learn this much about rangeland and natural resource management. Even more so, I was not expecting to become this interested in rangeland management, but here I am, currently pursuing job opportunities and graduate school programs (whichever comes first at this point) where I get to work with rangelands and grassland plants. Never would I have imagined that my job experiences would have led me here, these last 5 months have been incredibly educating.

They were reworking one of the grassland roads, I got to help bury the water drainage pipe
Sprinkling some seed along side the road~

I’d like to thank my mentor Greg, everyone at the Grand River ranger district office (Kyle, Vivian, Patrick, Larissa, Lacy, Dave, Zac), everyone I’ve met across the other DPG districts (JJ, Jack, Cale, Alex, Russ), everyone I’ve met with NDSU (Kaylee, Ben, Daniel), and all the lovely people I’ve met around Lemmon (Ann, Chad, Joey); you all have enriched my life and I will forever be grateful to you. While I’m excited to return to Oklahoma, I am going to miss my time working up on the DPG. Feel like I should have more to say with this being my final blog post… but I think all my previous blog post have done a good job summarizing my experience here haha.

My first time ever seeing the aurora borealis!
And visited some co-interns at the Helena-Lewis and Clark NF

I hope all of my fellow interns at other forest had a great season!

Farewell!

Jenna

Dakota Prairie Grassland, SD

I Couldn’t Get Used to This

As I drove through the forest on my last field day, I looked out the window, staring at those big ol’ Fir trees I now know and love. I began to process that this would be the last time, for a long time, that I would see this forest. When I first arrived in the Willamette National Forest, I was starstruck. Everything looked like a dream. I wondered if people out here ever got used to the beauty. Now, as I come to the end of my season, I ask myself the same question.

To answer it simply, no.

How would you ever get used to this?

To explain further, I don’t think it’s possible to get used to it. I’m never looking at the same exact thing. The more I look at the forest, the more I find another hidden detail – a tiny cove in a riverbed, a little beetle crawling on leaves, or even just a beautiful overlook. During my time out here, I’ve been fortunate enough to witness the seasons change from early Summer to late Autumn. When I first arrived, Mt. Jefferson was coated in snow, then I watched the glaciers melt to reveal bare rock, and now, in my final week, the snow has returned. I’ve loved being up close and personal with the passage of time.

The forest changes constantly. We watched the flowers bloom into mature seeds, and the fruiting of huckleberry bushes are now replaced with fruiting fungi on the forest floor. Our sunny days are instead replaced with cloudy rain, and the forest looks completely different after rainfall – the moss is brighter, the river runs faster, and the newly fallen trees block our path. The animals go in and out of hibernation and mating – the birds I heard in early June are now replaced with October crow squawks. The roads that made me feel like I was going to summer camp in a blockbuster film now fill my mind with the tune of “Winter Wonderland”. The lighting, the colors, the noises, the weather, and even the feel of the forest are changing constantly. 

So, maybe I can’t say if I’ve gotten used to it because this forest isn’t the same as when I began. There are constantly new things to learn and new ways to understand what’s going on. As soon as we scientists think we understand the way of the land, some new research comes out revealing another one of nature’s secrets, changing how we see everything. With each piece of information I learn, I look at the forest differently.

Despite all of the changes, this forest does feel like home. All the plants that used to blur together, now feel comforting to me, like seeing an old friend. I look at the forest differently, but in a way that you look at a friend differently when you begin to understand them deeper. Even if everything wasn’t changing, I don’t think I would get used to it. Beauty isn’t something you get used to or bored by. I feel like true beauty is something you appreciate every time you see it because no matter how long you stare, your brain will never be able to comprehend how something so divine was created. So, goodbye Willamette – I hope you know how beautiful you are. 

One of my favorite moments from this season – I was reading during my lunch break, and a grasshopper came and sat on my page. We stared into each other’s eyes, forming a deep cosmic connection for 20 minutes, but then I had to go. I will miss him.

Sweet endings

The final month of the 2024 field season is coming to a close. With the weather getting colder, we have been quickly wrapping up seed collections! So many seeds this season!!! Dean and I were struggling to find a good population of Epilobium canum, and with a lot of searching we were able to find 3 populations that were still flowering this month! We’ve managed to collect from 51 populations of native plants. It’s insane how many seeds we’ve been able to collect this year!

The botany crew did a cross-training day with the GBI wildlife crew to mark a tree that a goshawk was nesting in! We all got to go on a nice hike and see a new section of the forest we have not explored.

I then went to Arcada with Luis, Lucas and Jayna (Luis is on the botany crew, Lucas and Jayna are the amphibian team here)! We saw so many amazing things and had a great time exploring the area. I also got to see my brother in San Fransisco, which was so fun to see him in a different state and explore!

Over the last two weeks, we have been working on mounting all of our vouchers and getting the seeds ready for shipment. Dean’s season ended early, So I’ve recruited the help of the botany team (thank you guys so much!). We weighed all of the populations and got our vouchers herbarium ready!

This season has been nothing short of amazing. Thank you, Dean, for such a wonderful season. I had such a great time with you on all of our adventures together, and I’m so thankful that this job connected us. To the botany team, thank you all so much. You guys made this season very fun for Dean and me, thank you for coming out with us and helping us with the seeds!

Cheers to the next adventure!

Crafternoon

Seasons of Rarity

Field work is a doorway to unique experiences you’ll never be able to recreate.

May through October in Northern Rockiest all four seasons present themselves. It snows in the mountains in May, the flowers bloom in June and July, the fires burn hot in August, the colors change in September, then the snow returns in October. Working in the Flathead National Forest for the last six months I got to witness all these seasonal transition and an incredible variety of experiences throughout them.

I’ll never forget

wondering the forest in search of rare orchids

seeing whole wet meadows full carnivorous sundew plants

trudging through the the brush in search of creeks that harbor endangered species

holding bumble bees in my bare hands

identifying tiny moonworts hidden under ferns

scouring the road sides for our rare native flowering plants

and the pure beauty of Montana’s northern forest the will inspire me for years to come

Before this internship, I spent the last three years working as an artist and scientific illustrator. Working outside almost everyday and seeing so many different ecosystems and rare plants I’ve never seen before has really inspired me.

Not only will I be using the photos I took as inspiration this winter, I was able to use my skills as an artist to enhance some herbarium vouchers for the Flathead National Forest Herbarium through painting the flower heads and bracts of certain species that wilted a lot after being collected.

Creating herbarium vouchers felt like an art project in itself, it was a very relaxing and fun aspect of botany that I enjoyed doing at the end of the season.

Among many things, field work is a doorway to unique experiences you’ll never be able to recreate. The snow in the mountains on a sunny day. The moose splashing through the creek that makes your heart stop. Hiking a dozen miles gaining 2000ft of elevation just to find that plant you were looking eaten by herbivores at the top. Every summer, every mountain, every valley, every crew is a completely different.

I am extremely grateful for Chicago Botanic Garden and the crew that I had the opportunity to be a part. This was my first season back in the field since 2020 and it was so amazing to have the skills and knowledge I learned so many years ago be brought back to the surface. The encouragement from for the team at the Chicago Botanic Garden and the Flathead National Forest Botany crew has given me the confidence, motivation and connections I needed to pursue the next steps in my education and go to graduate school. I will be taking the knowledge I learned from this internship with me into my graduate project. Including but not limited to specimen collection, herbarium voucher creation, site data collection, data management and reporting.

The ending of a field season is always bittersweet. I am grateful that I live in Montana and don’t have to leave these Mountains behind, but I will miss this internship and will carry it with me into my next adventures as I hope to many more seasons of rare experiences.

Flathead National Forest Botany Crew (from left to right) Chris, Sierra, Grace, Bailey, Erynn, Ryan

Erynn – Flathead Nation Forest, MT

Lightning came in on the telephone line

against the harsh rock peak, the delicate glass and wood of the lookout’s cabin stands defiant in the wind, a beacon in a sea of mountains

to lie down is to touch two of the four log walls

a dry bear grass bed on the wood slat floor

two chairs, one for the lookout and another for the ranger when he visits

instruments to measure fire direction and a man and the telephone line to bear witness

mules haul soda + yeast for the morning pancakes and letters to remember the world by

lard + milk and some ivory soap

a dozen candles to keep a flame to watch for fire by

streams seldom flow uphill; the smokechaser wakes at dawn break to fill his water bag miles below

upon the ascent, towards the top of the world, the world gets smaller

the alpine climate, above the tree line, the church spire tops of sub-alpine firs bow down to a forest in miniature

dwarf willows and mushrooms the size of fingernails and fairy spoons keep close to the ground in that windswept place

in the evening, the dispatchers open the telephone lines between the lookouts

they talk with the phones hung around their necks and call out checker moves, the hands free to play for two

* * *

and at night, the lightning

there is a smell to lightning, and a transmutative quality in its anticipation

coyote yips sound like human cries and then all is the crash of clouds

the wind washes you clean, sleeping in the slipstream

and that smell of static in the air, like mother drying clothes, of oxygen split to ozone

blind and searching, the blue energy seeks contact

lightning came in on the telephone line

the pathway of least resistance through the wire and then the water body

storm paths recorded faithfully by the earthbound

but with every added observation, reality looms larger and faith in prediction faulters

the recorder turned conductor and split asunder by his very own nature

the spirit may be displaced for some period, the forest of neurons lit momentarily by an alien fire

freeing of space again and maybe we return, and maybe the rolling clouds wash us clean

“lightning may do no damage to the wire, or it may burn the telephone wire completely”

mountain goats clamor back to the peaks

man sits at the telephone, about to speak

a dial tone, contact missed a beat

— Grace D.

* * *

A lightning strike my uncle caught on camera

This poem is inspired by recent events and old stories. While researching the Hungry Horse Dam for my last blog post, I came across two histories of the Flathead National Forest: The Flathead Story by Charlie Shaw and Trails of the Past by Kathryn McKay. Both histories are extensive and cover many aspects of early forest service happenings and 19th and 20th century life in the area. I was particularly drawn to the sections on fire lookout life and lightning. The quoted section in the poem, “lightning may do no damage to the wire, or it may burn the telephone wire completely” is quoted directly from Shaw’s chapter on lightning (The Flathead Story (Chapter 26)). The details in the poem concerning food rations and daily lookout life are also inspired by descriptions from both histories. I was moved by a tragedy that occurred near Pagoda Lookout involving two men maintaining a telephone line during a lightning storm. If you wish to read about this event, the story is in the last paragraph of Shaw’s chapter on lightning (The Flathead Story (Chapter 26)).

“Robert’s Lookout” still standing today in Eureka, MT. The original lookout was a “crows nest” style, built in 1920. The structure seen here was built in 1920 and originally stood at Roberts Mtn west of Fortine, MT. Ross “Shorty” Young was stationed here from 1924 to 1943.

Last week I attended a local short film festival in Missoula, MT. One film that stuck with me was “The Lookout.” The film is not (yet?) available online, but if you are interested in details regarding the actors and the director, there is a profile on IMDb (The Lookout (Short 2024) – IMDb). Stay tuned for eventual public release of this film. The film opens on a lone lookout and his simple life. Strange, foreboding signs start to haunt him, bringing into question both his true nature and the environment’s true nature. People are not what they seem, and nature reclaims what was once believed separate. A still from the film of pancake batter dripping off a fire pit and clear secretions running from the lookout’s nose reveal an unknown, lurking presence. In the midst of all this creeping horror, there is great beauty in the landscapes and the natural world. I thought of this film, too, while writing this poem about the wonder and the terror of being outside, exposed to the elements.

A break in the storm on a hike near Trapper Peak in the Bitterroot National Forest; I only spent about fifteen minutes at the lake because of the foreboding clouds. On the way up to the lake rain came down in buckets.

The smell of lightening is very real, and it appears to be the smell of ozone (Cappucci 2018). For myself, lightning strikes a primal fear in me, and I have rushed down several trails to get away from a high alpine lake as dark clouds gathered around the peaks. On our drive back from delivering seed to the Coeur D’Alene Seed Nursery, my co-intern and I listened to a talk with Cathy Cripps, an alpine mycologist (Ep. 113: Mushrooms of the Rocky Mountains and Arctic Alpine Biome (fea – Mushroom Hour). She talked about her work in alpine climates and the world in miniature up there. She studied short willow forests and their mycorrhizal associations with alpine fungi and her pioneering work with mycorrhizal fungi in white bark pine restoration.  

The rock I hunkered under while the storm dumped rain and lightning crackled.

I discovered many things about the world and about myself this season. Thank you to the Flathead National Forest botany department, my co-intern Erynn, and many others who made this season so wonderful.

A slow portion of the Flathead River, only a few minutes down the road from where I stayed in Kalispell this summer.

References

Cappucci, Matthey. “Lighting Has a Smell, and the Science Behind it is Beautiful.” The Washington Post. (2018). https://www.sciencealert.com/here-s-why-you-can-actually-smell-lightning

McKay, Kathryn L.  “Trails of the Past: Historical Overview of the Flathead National Forest, Montana, 1800–1960.” Flathead National Forest. (1994). http://www.npshistory.com/publications/usfs/region/1/flathead/history/#:~:text=TRAILS%20OF%20THE%20PAST:%20Historical%20Overview

Shaw, Charlie. “The Flathead Story.”  USDA Forest Service, Flathead National Forest. (1967) http://www.npshistory.com/publications/usfs/region/1/flathead/story/index.htm#:~:text=THE%20FLATHEAD%20STORY.%20By.%20Charlie%20Shaw.

Farewell Field Season

As the frost becomes more frequent in the Chugach, October is filled with bittersweet moments as the season ends. Our final seed collection excursions had an underlying mournfulness. Seeing the fruits (I suppose they’re seeds) of my labor as bags full of seeds after processing and cleaning filled my heart with satisfaction and fulfillment. With that fulfillment came a twinge of sadness, knowing that the season was over and my days romping around the wilderness with my field partner were gone. The end of the season also came with the excitement of fall seed sowing. I delivered seeds to the Anchorage Water and Soil Conservation District for grow out several times, and we got to direct sow Artemisia arctica, Angelica lucida, Heracleum maximum, and Calamagrostis canadensis at the Resurrection Creek restoration site. Through this process, I witnessed how my work this field season will directly impact my home state and the restoration of its natural spaces. (and it was fun!)

Some of the seeds to be directly sown to the Resurrection Creek restoration site.
Little clip of me direct sowing Heracleum maximum.

By October, we had harvested most of the species on our target species list, but there was one that I couldn’t let evade me: Artemisia tilesii. I noticed significant patches when I scouted for fish with a friend in the Anchorage area on the Bureau of Land Management and Municipality of Anchorage parkland. I had also noticed some at the Anchorage Botanical Garden growing in their wild spaces while on a date (the native plant obsession never pauses, even on a date.) So, I contacted The Bureau of Land Management, the Municipality of Anchorage, and the Anchorage Botanical Garden to gain permission to harvest on their land. All organizations obliged, letters of agreement were drawn, and my field partner and I got to travel to Anchorage for a tilesii collection. Our efforts seemed in vain when I set out to clean the seed during one of my last weeks, though, as they were infested with some weird, goopy sacks we deemed the “Goopy bois.” My mentor researched the mysterious “goopy bois” and discovered they were Trypeta flaveola (fruit fly) eggs. Although they aren’t considered especially harmful pests for the plants, we hesitated to send the infected seed to our grower. I spent hours brainstorming and experimenting with ways to clean the seed from these eggs. Finally, I found a sieve sufficient to separate the two post-cleaning with our mechanical seed cleaner, the “Clipper Office Tester.” Once most eggs were separated, I plucked the rest out with tweezers. Finally, I had my pure collection of Artemisia tilesii seeds ready to grow out for the restoration site. 

An exciting part of the end of the season was mounting our herbarium vouchers. We had carefully and meticulously arranged plants for pressing all season long and finally got to create the final product. Creating the labels came with some headaches, as most data organization tends to, but it resulted in satisfying and beautiful labels for our vouchers. I had never mounted a voucher before this; my closest experience was pressing flowers to glue on construction paper for arts and crafts as a child. It turns out mounting vouchers is essentially the same thing: doing so more mindfully! I found immense joy in mounting the vouchers, even the pesky long, delicate, and abundant graminoids. Each voucher came out like a work of art. Thankfully, my work with vouchers didn’t have to end there. I had two weeks left after my field partner’s season ended because I came to the forest later. Because of this, I got to work on a project I was excited about after tying up all the loose ends from seed collection the week after her departure. My last week was cataloging herbarium vouchers from the Chugach National Forest Herbarium. There are thousands of specimens and no records compiling all of their data. I started the cataloging process by visiting the Herbarium and entering the data for as many specimens as possible. To some, that might sound like a snooze, but for me, there was no better way to cap off the season than to look at plant specimens from 1964 to now and aid in their immortalization by recording their data. (Also, how cool is it that collections I made will be stored for future botanists to reference?!)

It’s challenging to express the depth of my gratitude for this internship and the realization of many of my aspirations. The dream of being a scientist, the dream of working in a National Forest, the dream of contributing to the restoration of natural spaces in my home, and the dream of continuing the native plant legacy in my family – these aspirations have been realized. I went on excursions to monitor wildlife, maintain bird nesting boxes, hike and explore almost daily, harvest native seeds, spread native seeds, and collaborate with other botanists on native seed collection and restoration from different organizations. This experience allowed me to connect with people who share my love for the natural world, and through all of this, I was able to nourish my soul. 

This opportunity has transformed me from a native plant enthusiast to a full-on botany nerd. Before this position, I enjoyed foraging for berries and a few native plant species greens, but I never imagined I would memorize the Latin names of so many species. Now, I find myself knowing some species only by their scientific names, most by several common names and their scientific names. As I stroll through nature, I mutter the names of the plants around me and eagerly share the information I’ve gathered this summer with anyone who is with me (and willing to listen.) This behavior might not be entirely new for me, as I spent years guiding at a remote lodge and created a plant tour on a muskeg full of ethnobotanical facts. However, now, the information I get to share is far more in-depth and spread across a plethora of new species. The joy of sharing this knowledge is as fulfilling as the knowledge itself. Before this experience, I was still determining my career path. I knew I wanted to work in ecology, but I wasn’t sure if I wanted to focus more on wildlife or botany. Now, I know that botany is the route I would love to pursue. Part of me wishes this was a permanent position and that I could explore the wilderness and harvest native seeds every field season, but I know that future CLM interns will have life-changing experiences like mine, and I am so excited for them to experience it. I was nervous at the beginning of this season, knowing I had no formal botany education, but passion and curiosity quickly propelled me to gain the knowledge I needed not only to succeed but to flourish in this position.

Plants grown out from last year’s interns that ended up planted at the restoration site.

Goodbye Montana

After 6 months here at the HLC NF, it’s all finally coming to an end. It still doesn’t feel real to me as I’m typing this, but in just a few days I’ll be heading back to Pennsylvania to prepare for my next big move. This all a bit bittersweet for me. I’m overall excited to bring the skills I have gained through this program into whatever endeavor I decide to pursue next, but there are a few things that I am really going to miss about this place.

For starters: the view. It is unlike anything else I have seen before and it has been an absolute privilege to call this forest my home. I mean just look at this! It’s absolutely breathtaking!

I’m also going to miss the people that I have spent so much time with over the summer. A part of not living near a lot of people is naturally getting closer to the people who are near you. I don’t think I’ll ever forget the people I met through this internship.

I’m not sure if anyone considering this position will read this, but in the slight chance that someone in that exact position comes across I will offer up a bit of advice:

Don’t pass this up. There is so much that you will learn from a season in the program and you’ll be able to see different parts of the country that you haven’t been to yet.

Signing off one last time,

Nick

Reflections on the End of a Season

As I sit here writing this post, the end of my season is rapidly approaching. It is as if the weather knows that endings are coming, giving us cold days and dark mornings. The station has grown quite quiet as our numbers rapidly dwindle. Our team of seven is now just a team of three. The mice are invading our house to escape the cold and our heater makes our house sing a rumbling lullaby.

I have always found the changing of the seasons to be an apt metaphor for times of transition. The cyclical nature of the seasons mirrors the way each ending is a beginning. As summer leaves us and fall prepares us for the cold winter ahead, I can’t help but look back on how much my life has changed in the last six months.

I started this job having just finished my undergraduate degree. I was filled with the fear of not knowing what is ahead, like it was too dark to see what was right in front of my face. Now I am faced again with not knowing, but I feel ready to free fall into the darkness.

When I started this job I was full of excitement and nerves, I had no idea what to expect. Throughout college my passion for plants grew like a vine spreading to every part of my life. Now I feel as though that passion has blossomed leaving me with a sense of sureness about what I want to do with my life. I love plants. I love the way they grow. I love the way they cope with every changing conditions. I love learning what each plant is and what makes it unique. I love what we can learn about life and death from plants.

I am so grateful to have spent this season doing work about something I am so passionate about. I have learned so much and yet it is only the beginning of what is a long and twisting road ahead of me. I sit here not knowing what is next in my life, but there is a sort of comfort in the unknown. The only constant I will ever find in my life is change and I welcome that. The choices are all mine and there is no right or wrong choice, only the choice I make.

I will miss Montana, but my East Coast heart aches for the place I have always called home. I will soon say my sorrowful goodbyes to this big and beautiful state. I am ready to return to Massachusetts where the people are unfriendly and cold, but where my heart feels so warm. I will stare out at the vastness of the ocean and think of Montana and the wide open spaces.

Nearly all the plants have dropped their seeds reflecting the ending that is just a whisper away. When I first arrived everything was in bloom and the hope of spring was all around us. As the season has gone on and the plants have fruited and seeded changing the environment around us I couldn’t help but feel as though I was growing and changing with them. Now as the trees and perennials begin their dormancy for winter, I too prepare for the next cycle of my life.

Backpacking in Jefferson Park

Let me start by apologizing for my previous blog post. It was lackluster and I know I can do better. As I’m writing this, it hasn’t been posted yet, and I’m not sure if it ever will as that decision isn’t mine to make (shoutout Monica, you’re the best). I, regardless though, felt saddened by the lack of detail. This post will be different. You, dear reader, deserve more.

Here’s my account of my backpacking trip from September 9th to 11th—3 days and 2 nights—in the Jefferson Park area within the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness.

Ash and Heidi preparing to map Calamagrostis breweri populations

A Definition

Type 2 Fun is an experience that isn’t fun at the moment but is fun in hindsight. It’s often associated with difficult and scary situations, where the stories later are good and you leave with a better understanding of yourself and your boundaries. I hadn’t heard this term before, but as soon as the trip was being planned, Michael, our coworker, kept calling it that. I would hear this phrase repeatedly—before, during, and after the trip.

The Weeks Before

When backpacking was first suggested, I was excited. I’d never done anything like it and was curious about spending a night in the wilderness with no service, vehicle, or my usual luxuries.  

As the trip approached, Heidi, our mentor, gave us a long list of things to buy (food, supplies, etc.). I bought nothing. It worked out fine because many necessities were covered by USFS botany supplies, Heidi herself, our boss Darrin, and my general willingness to endure discomfort rather than purchase extra stuff.  

Then we learned it was a three-night trip. I panicked, realized I wasn’t up for that, and bailed. Ella bailed with me. Heidi compromised and said we could stay for just one night to get a feel for the experience, and just like that, we were back in. 

A few days before, Ella got sick but, y’know, she’ll be better by the trip…

The Day Before

Ella was not better by the trip.

I decided to cancel my plans because I couldn’t just go for one night without a partner to hike back with. I also didn’t want to make Ash leave early with me because they were more excited about the trip. I felt perfectly fine about skipping. Ella told Heidi she couldn’t make it, and Heidi called, asking me to stay two nights and have Ash and me hike back together. I reluctantly agreed. I packed my bag, attaching an old work photo of Ella for company on the journey.1

Day One

After finishing packing, I drank my last Dr. Pepper for a few days and ate a tofu scramble and a bean burrito. We loaded the truck and weighed our backpacks—both came out to about 31.5 lbs. Not due to careful planning on our part, but a lovely coincidence nonetheless. The universe works in mysterious ways. 

On the drive to the trailhead, Ash’s queue included spot-on songs like “The Climb” (Miley Cyrus), “These Boots Are Made for Walkin’” (Nancy Sinatra), and “On the Run” from Steven Universe. We emerged from the vehicle, stretched, discussed, had a laugh, and began.

The giggles cease. This is no laughing matter. 

My notes from the hike:  

– Two miles in: The first mile was steep and a bit painful but not too bad. I’m trying to conserve water. My pack is heavy, and the hike is tough but manageable.

Lunch view, two miles through the hike

– We had to cross a creek to continue along the trail. Everyone made it across smoothly—except for yours truly. As you read this post to get a sense of my adventure, just know that my left hiking boot was completely soaked. By the end of the trip, it wasn’t so bad, but in the moment, it was unpleasant. Type 2 Fun?

– For the last mile, I daydreamed about my hip and shoulder bones turning to dust and floating away… then, at last…

We finished the six miles, set up camp, and ate dinner (my first Mountain House meal—fire!). The worst was behind me. Russell Lake was beautiful.

Russell Lake, featuring Mount Jefferson
Ash takes in the magnitude of Mount Jefferson (It’s big)

I plugged my phone into the portable charger, cracked open Silent Spring by Rachel Carson, and my phone stopped charging. With 89% battery left, I realized that was it for the rest of the trip. This would not be an issue considering the disciplined reality-supremacist that I am. I express gratitude that I am such an offline and present person. 2

I closed my book and tried to sleep.

Day Two

I slept terribly, but I wasn’t as cold as I expected, so that was a win. Ash and I exchanged thoughts on our sleep. I mentioned how comforting it was to hear Ash rustling around during the night because I knew I wasn’t alone in my insomniac misery. Ash didn’t share this sentiment and expressed their frustration when they noticed I had fallen asleep at one point while they hadn’t.

We performed four transects, searching for the endemic grass Calamagrostis breweri, collecting and mapping data points. The transects were located using GPS coordinates, UTMs, and photo comparisons from previous surveys. Rare plant monitoring like this helps track population changes and assess if human activity in Jefferson Park is harming the species. I asked Heidi if there were any noticeable difference when comparing the data to five and ten years ago, and she said the data has been inconsistent. She hopes that by coming out yearly in the future, we’ll see meaningful trends.  

Heidi using photos of past surveys to find the sites
Heidi and Michael working on the transects
Calamagrostis breweri, native to the mountains of northern California and Oregon

During the fourth transect, the temperature plummeted, clouds rolled in, and we retreated to camp for the night. I ate a macaroni Mountain House meal (not as fire…) and incited a conversation about Christmas trees. The crew preferred real pine trees, but I half-jokingly suggested leaving gifts outside under a tree to avoid cutting one down. This idea wasn’t popular, but such is the life of the free-thinker.

Dinner with Ella

After clocking out, Ash and I sat by the lake until it got too cold to bear, then returned to our tents to read and sleep.  

Day Three

The sleep was better than the night before, but still not great or like, even kinda decent or anything. It rained overnight, and when we woke up, it was COLD. We layered up, packed, made breakfast, and headed for Scout Lake.  

Ash (and if you look closely, Ella too) at the Jefferson Park sign on our hike out

Heidi told Ash and me that since we were leaving today (Heidi and Michael were undecided), we could scout for whitebark pine (Pinus albicaulis), mark the points, and head back to the Whitewater trailhead. We found a few points, but once my toes got soaked from the wet vegetation, the focus shifted to returning to our beloved truck, “Yappers.” 3  

There is no earthly explanation for what happened next: When we first hiked the trail (six miles, with elevation changes and heavy packs), it took us six hours. On the way back, carrying almost the same weight, though admittedly easier elevation-wise, it took us less than three. We agreed that we were motivated like dogs on treadmills chasing bacon—my bacon being Dr. Pepper, and Ash’s being Aquaphor for their chapped lips. Maybe that was the reason for the speed, but nobody really knows what happened that day…

Hiking and contemplating how much Dr. Pepper I am going to drink when I get back

We got to Yappers, and as soon as we hit the road, it started raining. Perhaps Mother Nature herself was guiding us towards Yappers faster to escape the precipitation. How kind she is. 

On the drive back to the ranger station, Ash was back on aux—featuring “Successful” (Ariana Grande), “It’s Over, Isn’t It?” from Steven Universe, and “Out of the Woods” (Taylor Swift). If Ash ever grows tired of environmentalism and botany, I propose a future career as an oddly specific playlist creator. 

Back at the apartment, we were reunited with our Dr. Pepper and Aquaphor. We unpacked, did laundry, showered, and I sat down with a salad and avocado, waiting for Ella to come home.  

1. You might be thinking, “Hey Katie, that’s not normal behavior,” and you know what? Maybe it isn’t. But I’ve got separation anxiety that is only comparable to that of a quarantine puppy, and I’ve made peace with it. So maybe you should too, you jerk.

2. This is a lie. I was very nervous, but it was fine.

3. Yappers is a very special truck, named for his tendency to yap (beep loudly and excessively) when objects are close by, which happens extremely often when driving down old forest roads, but we love him dearly.